ALTERNATIVE WALES AWAY: PRAGUE
As at the time of writing this, it’s still unclear whether the Red Wall will be present in Prague for the game against the Czech Republic in October. But ever the optimist, I would love to be able to welcome my fellow countrymen and women to the country I have called home for the past 20 years.
It’s well known that Prague is one of Europe’s most beautiful capital cities and one of the most visited in the world. It also has tons of guide books for you to admire its beauty close-up. However, with this being an alternative fanzine, I thought I’d give you some alternative tips of things to do and see here.
Get up early or don’t go to bed, and explore the city without the tourists. There’s something magical about Prague when it’s quiet. A walk around Old Town Square, then make your way across the Charles Bridge and up to the castle, you won’t regret it. It’s a unique opportunity to have the city just to yourselves.
Drink in Zizkov, Holesovice/Letna or Vrsovice. It’s easy to get stuck in the centre paying UK prices for your beer, pop or coffee. If you head to Zizkov or Vrsovice, you’re more than likely to get your “local” experience.
One thing I love about CZ is that you are more than likely able to walk into most football stadiums. If you’re in the Vrsovice area, pop into Dolicka, the home of Bohemians Prague, and you might bump into the Czech football legend Antonin Panenka who is often hanging around the ticket office.
Download these two apps “Muj Fotbal” and “Brewee”. If you’re in the country before or after our game, Muj Fotbal is a great app for groundhoppers looking for a local game. Games are played from 10:15am until late evening. Brewer tells you where the closest microbrewery is…you’ll be in heaven.
Talking of beer, Pilsner Urquell is without question the best beer in the world and if you’re not keen to venture too far out of the city centre, then pubs like U Pinkasa, U Hrocha, Lokal or U Souda pour the perfect pint and are great pubs to drink in.
Czech food is great, so while you are here, try the local dishes. The food is perhaps a bit hearty, stodgy and meaty, but it’s one of the finest cuisines in the world. Svickova, goulash and duck, sauerkraut and dumplings should be on every menu.
If you're looking for a place to throw some shapes, then Lucerna Music Bar on Wenceslas Square has a very lively 80s and 90s club night every Friday and Saturday. If you’re looking for something a bit “cooler” then try Palac Akropolis in Zizkov; great for food too during the day.
Go to Naplavka in the evening. It's Prague’s recently renovated riverbank in the city centre and very popular with the locals. It seems to come alive from June onwards with dozens of pop-up pubs, restaurants and cafes. The pop-ups are everything from tents, small chambers in the walls of the walkways, to locals with picnic tables. It’s a stone’s throw from the Dancing House.
Tipping. Firstly, Czechs don’t tip nearly as much as we would at home. Over here, we usually tip if the service and food was of a good quality. So, if you’re not happy with the service or the food, don’t tip. In most restaurants or bars, work on giving a 10% tip. However, if you get a bill of 225kc, it’s okay to give 240kc. It may seem too little, but I am sure the waiter/waitress will be happy.
Czechs love it if you attempt the local lingo. Just to give you an example, it’s common when entering the vast majority of establishments to “announce yourself” with a polite “Dobry Den” which literally translates to “Good Day”. If you don’t do this then it will automatically be assumed you're a tourist, which is okay too. If you do, then I am sure you will more often than not receive a warmer welcome than if you hadn’t said anything. When you leave, say “Na Shledanou” (Goodbye) - they’ll appreciate the efforts.
There are so many things to do and places to see in Prague. I am sure whatever you’ll do, you will love Czech Republic and most importantly make sure that when you leave, you’ve got those 3 points safely packed in your SO58 rucksack. Come on Cymru!!!
Ralph Davies
This article was featured in issue #3 of Alternative Wales, you can buy a copy from here.